Heirloom Wood Furniture Guide

Wood is a living material. Even after it’s been milled, dried, and finished, solid wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. This isn’t a defect—it’s physics. The question is whether the builder planned for it.

What good builders do:

• Use kiln-dried hardwood to reduce moisture content before construction. This minimizes (but doesn’t eliminate) seasonal movement.
• Design joints and panels that allow wood to move without cracking or warping. For example, a solid-wood tabletop is typically attached to the base with hardware that allows cross-grain expansion.
• Choose wood species that are inherently more stable. Quarter-sawn boards, for instance, move less across seasons than plain-sawn boards.

Red flags: If a large solid-wood surface is rigidly glued or screwed with no allowance for movement, it’s likely to crack, split, or warp over time—especially in Tennessee’s humid summers and dry winter heating seasons.

Key Takeaway: Ask “How does this piece handle seasonal wood movement?” It’s one of the best quality questions you can ask.

Ask us: We’ll explain how each maker addresses wood movement in their construction.

Joinery is where craftsmanship shows. How pieces of wood are connected determines whether furniture holds up for 5 years or 50.

The joints to know:

• Mortise-and-tenon: A projecting piece (tenon) fits into a hole (mortise) for a strong mechanical lock. This is the gold standard for structural joints in quality casegoods. Stickley calls it out as a hallmark of their builds.
• Dovetail: Interlocking fan-shaped cuts that resist pulling apart. The classic sign of quality drawer construction. Look for dovetails on drawer fronts and backs.
• Corner blocks: Triangular reinforcements at stress points (where legs meet rails, for example). Not glamorous, but they prevent wobble and racking over time.

What to avoid: Furniture held together primarily by staples, nails, or glue alone. These joints loosen with use. Butt joints (flat edge to flat edge) without mechanical reinforcement are the weakest option.

Key Takeaway: Check the high-stress joints. If you can see dovetails and feel solid joints, you’re in the right territory.

Ask us: “What joinery is used on the high-stress joints of this piece?”

Veneer isn’t automatically bad. In fact, on large flat surfaces like tabletops and dresser tops, quality veneer over a stable substrate can actually be more stable than solid wood—because it’s less prone to warping.

When veneer is a feature:

• Wide surfaces (dining tables, large dressers) benefit from veneer’s dimensional stability.
• Veneer allows bookmatched grain patterns that aren’t possible with solid wood.
• Quality veneer uses thick slices of real wood over a stable core like MDF or plywood.

When veneer is a problem:

• Thin veneers over low-grade particleboard—especially on edges—chip and peel quickly.
• Poor adhesive and substrate in high-moisture environments lead to delamination.
• If you can’t sand and refinish the surface, its lifespan is limited.

Key Takeaway: Don’t ask “Is this solid wood?”—ask how the drawers and joinery are built. That tells you more about overall quality.

Ask us: “What’s the substrate under this veneer, and how thick is the veneer layer?”

Drawers are the highest-use component in most casegoods. They’re opened and closed thousands of times over the life of a piece. Construction quality here directly impacts your daily experience.

Drawer box construction:

• Look for solid-wood drawer boxes with dovetail joinery. This is the standard in heirloom-quality furniture.
• Drawer bottoms should be solid wood or quality plywood captured in a groove (not stapled on from below).
• Avoid thin hardboard or flimsy MDF drawer bottoms—they sag and fail over time.

Slide types:

• Full-extension slides: Let you access the entire drawer. Ball-bearing slides are smooth and durable.
• Under-mount slides: Hidden beneath the drawer box for a clean look. Higher-end but more expensive.
• Wood-on-wood slides: Traditional, found on some classic builds. Smooth when well-fitted but can stick in humid conditions.

Key Takeaway: The one-hand test: open the drawer with one hand. It should glide smoothly, stay on track, and close firmly.

Ask us: “What slide hardware does this piece use, and what’s the drawer box made of?”

A good finish protects the wood and sets the tone for maintenance. It’s also the part of the piece you interact with every day, so durability and repairability matter.

What to look for:

• Catalyzed finishes: Chemical-cured finishes that are highly durable and resistant to water rings and scratches. Common on higher-end production furniture.
• Lacquer: Traditional, repairable, and can be re-coated. Softer than catalyzed finishes but easier to touch up.
• Oil finishes: Beautiful and natural-feeling, but require more maintenance. Best for people who enjoy the upkeep process.

Finish strategy for families: If you have kids, choose a lower-sheen, textured finish over high-gloss. A satin or matte finish hides daily wear much better.

Repairability: Ask whether the finish can be touched up or refinished. Heirloom pieces from brands like Stickley and MAVIN are built to be refinished when needed—extending their life by decades.

Key Takeaway: Choose a finish that matches your lifestyle, not just one that looks best in the showroom.

Ask us: “What finish is on this piece, and how do I maintain it?” We’ll give you a care plan that matches the finish type.